Mountaineeringthe enterprise
instagram Simone Moro
The mountaineer from Bergamo could become the first, together with the Spanish Alex Txikon, to climb the 8163 m of the eighth peak on the planet in this period.
Monday 26 December 2022 3 minutes reading time
Are we really sure that all 14 giants were climbed in the coldest season?!
Perhaps the first to doubt it is Simone Moro, who with 22 winter explorations on the eight thousand, could become the first, with the Spaniard Alex Txikon, to actually climb the 8163 meters of the eighth peak on the planet, Manaslu, in winter. In fact, the 55-year-old from Bergamo has always maintained that it is the astronomical winter (from 21 December to 21 March) and not the meteorological one that is the only and authentic "winter season" in the northern hemisphere.
Moro never touched the mountain in advance of the winter solstice, on the occasion of the first absolute winter ascents of Shisha Pangma (8027 meters in 2005), Makalu (8463 meters in 2009), Gasherbrum II (8035 meters in 2011) and above all the masterpiece at Nanga Parbat (8126 m in 2016). The 4 expeditions and the 15 accredited climbers of the ascent were all ahead of their time: from Korea and Nepal they reached the top on 6 December 1998, from Kazakhstan on 8 December 1995, from Japan on 14 December 1985 and above all on 12 January 1984 the Polish pioneers Berbeka and Gajewski.
Having left in mid-November, on December 2nd they had already placed the base camp and on the 21st they set up advanced camp three. The Polish naturalized Russian Denis Urubko, former climbing partner of Moro, with whom he shared the historic first fruits on Makalu and Gasherbrum II, believes that of his compatriots is a winter one, in all respects, because it ranges from the beginning of December and the end of February. For the record, for these distinctions, we recall a famous dispute between Moro and Lafaille, aimed at determining the attribution of the first winter Shisha Pangma: that of the French, carried out on 11 December, was not considered valid, unlike of the January 14 ascent of Orobico.
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